• Achieving FISD Expert Infantryman and Centurion

    The First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment (FISD) offers two levels of optional programs to increase the quality of your TK above and beyond 501st standards.

    The Expert Infantryman Badge (EIB) is designed to give those who want to do more than the base level of Legion acceptance a set of higher achievable standards with a reasonable amount of effort and budget. FISD recognizes that stormtrooper-based costuming has evolved and because more information is available on how the original props were made, there is a group who want an even higher bar to reach for. Rather than increasing the current EIB standards to a new level, FISD has created the Centurion program.

    The Centurion program is for those who are continuing their costuming journey and have reached the "next step" of costuming standards. Close attention is paid to every exterior visible detail. There is no concern for what sort of strapping system is used, what connectors are made of, or what sort of plastic helmets and armor are pulled from. The focus will rest only on the outward appearance of the armor.

    Goal: 501st Acceptance, basics of armor building
    Target Audience: Beginner
    FISD Forum: Basic Training

    Goal: Expert Infantryman
    Target Audience: Intermediate
    FISD Forum: Infantry School

    Goal: Legion Centurion
    Target Audience: Expert
    FISD Forum: Advanced Tactics and Training

    The original suits from ďA New HopeĒ were created for a typical UK actor circa 1976, around 5'10" and 165lbs. However, armor can be successfully made to fit people as large as 6'4" and 235lbs using side shimming.

    When applying for EIB or Centurion you must build a specific style of Stormtrooper based on a particular film or video game. Each style of Stormtrooper has a unique set of requirements because helmet paint, accessories, and armor changed during each film.

    My helmet and armor is Authentic Props (AP). I have an SR Props E-11, Hyperfirm E-11, and Hyperfirm DLT-19. Iím going to focus on ANH Stunt for this explanation because thatís the version I focused on and itís the most popular one built by Detachment members. Instead of listing the entire CRL requirements for 501st, EIB, and Centurion Iím going to display pictures with a very brief explanation. Please read the FISDs CRLs for the type of TK youíre interested in: http://www.whitearmor.net/home/crl-overview.html. All photos are of my armor and weapons.

    Major things to consider for each armor part EIB in blue and Centurion in red:

    FX helmets not allowed
    MRCE helmets and ANHv2 helmets not allowed
    Helmet neck trim has S shape, not U
    Ear bars have only one or two bumps painted black
    Tears/Traps are hand painted or decals emulating hand painting

    Shoulder Straps
    No visible rivets allowed
    Free float in back and are glued in front
    Straps connected to white under strap connecting chest/back with an elastic band

    No return edge on inside of front forearm

    Gloves and Hand Plates
    Hand guards are latex or latex-like, painted white, affixed to rubber gloves
    Gloves are rubber or rubber like chemical gloves

    Chest and back connected with a white fabric or elastic strap at shoulders

    Back plate has no or minimal overlap of kidney plate

    Kidney Plate
    Separate kidney plate, split from the butt plate
    3 rivets on left side of kidney plate, equally spaced along depth of the armour and 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not.

    Ab Plate
    Any gap between the ab and kidney plate no more than 1/2" wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and back plate. Seams are allowed.
    Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line.
    Rivets on left side of ab plates: total of three rivets equally spaced along the depth of the armour and 10mm from the edge. May be painted white, or not.
    Single male snap on top right corner of ab plate
    Single split rivet or brad on the crotch tab of ab plate. Does not need to be functional

    Butt Plate
    Separate butt plate is required
    Two brads/snaps present on crotch tab of butt plate

    Canvas or canvas covered, leather and vinyl not acceptable
    Three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end

    Drop boxes closed in the back
    Corners of the belt trimmed at 45 degree angle

    Thermal Detonator
    Attached via metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and should be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint.

    Thigh armor belt connected by brads/split rivets only - standard rivets not acceptable
    Bottom corners of thigh belt are rounded off

    Lower legs
    No visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate (glue to shin)

    No seam on the front of the boot (CABoots are not allowed)
    Boots are lightly scuffed

    Holster worn on the left and attached to the belt from behind
    Holster affixed with two fasteners at bottom. These may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws

    BlasTech E-11 Blaster
    Folding stock (does not need to function)
    A real or replica ammo counter based off of a Hengstler counter
    D-ring mounted on rear
    Correct style scope
    Two power cylinders on the magazine
    Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster
    No ESB/ROTJ greeblies on the blaster are allowed

    Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

    BlasTech DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle

    My EIB Approved TK:
    This article was originally published in blog: Achieving FISD Expert Infantryman and Centurion started by TrooperTim