The First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment (FISD) offers two levels of optional programs to increase the quality of your TK above and beyond 501st standards.
The Expert Infantryman Badge (EIB) is designed to give those who want to do more than the base level of Legion acceptance a set of higher achievable standards with a reasonable amount of effort and budget. FISD recognizes that stormtrooper-based costuming has evolved and because more information is available on how the original props were made, there is a group who want an even higher bar to reach for. Rather than increasing the current EIB standards to a new level, FISD has created the Centurion program.
The Centurion program is for those who are continuing their costuming journey and have reached the "next step" of costuming standards. Close attention is paid to every exterior visible detail. There is no concern for what sort of strapping system is used, what connectors are made of, or what sort of plastic helmets and armor are pulled from. The focus will rest only on the outward appearance of the armor.
Goal: 501st Acceptance, basics of armor building
Target Audience: Beginner
FISD Forum: Basic Training
Goal: Expert Infantryman
Target Audience: Intermediate
FISD Forum: Infantry School
Goal: Legion Centurion
Target Audience: Expert
FISD Forum: Advanced Tactics and Training
The original suits from “A New Hope” were created for a typical UK actor circa 1976, around 5'10" and 165lbs. However, armor can be successfully made to fit people as large as 6'4" and 235lbs using side shimming.
When applying for EIB or Centurion you must build a specific style of Stormtrooper based on a particular film or video game. Each style of Stormtrooper has a unique set of requirements because helmet paint, accessories, and armor changed during each film.
My helmet and armor is Authentic Props (AP). I have an SR Props E-11, Hyperfirm E-11, and Hyperfirm DLT-19. I’m going to focus on ANH Stunt for this explanation because that’s the version I focused on and it’s the most popular one built by Detachment members. Instead of listing the entire CRL requirements for 501st, EIB, and Centurion I’m going to display pictures with a very brief explanation. Please read the FISDs CRLs for the type of TK you’re interested in: http://www.whitearmor.net/home/crl-overview.html. All photos are of my armor and weapons.
Major things to consider for each armor part EIB in blue and Centurion in red:
Helmet
FX helmets not allowed
MRCE helmets and ANHv2 helmets not allowed
Helmet neck trim has S shape, not U
Ear bars have only one or two bumps painted black
Tears/Traps are hand painted or decals emulating hand painting
Shoulder Straps
No visible rivets allowed
Free float in back and are glued in front
Straps connected to white under strap connecting chest/back with an elastic band
Forearms
No return edge on inside of front forearm
Gloves and Hand Plates
Hand guards are latex or latex-like, painted white, affixed to rubber gloves
Gloves are rubber or rubber like chemical gloves
Chest
Chest and back connected with a white fabric or elastic strap at shoulders
Back
Back plate has no or minimal overlap of kidney plate
Kidney Plate
Separate kidney plate, split from the butt plate
3 rivets on left side of kidney plate, equally spaced along depth of the armour and 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not.
Ab Plate
Any gap between the ab and kidney plate no more than 1/2" wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect should be of a similar material and color as the ab and back plate. Seams are allowed.
Ideally there should be no gap between the ab and kidney plates, just a single visible seam line.
Rivets on left side of ab plates: total of three rivets equally spaced along the depth of the armour and 10mm from the edge. May be painted white, or not.
Single male snap on top right corner of ab plate
Single split rivet or brad on the crotch tab of ab plate. Does not need to be functional
Butt Plate
Separate butt plate is required
Two brads/snaps present on crotch tab of butt plate
Belt
Canvas or canvas covered, leather and vinyl not acceptable
Three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end
Drop boxes closed in the back
Corners of the belt trimmed at 45 degree angle
Thermal Detonator
Attached via metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and should be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint.
Thighs
Thigh armor belt connected by brads/split rivets only - standard rivets not acceptable
Bottom corners of thigh belt are rounded off
Lower legs
No visible rivets or brads used to secure the sniper plate (glue to shin)
Boots
No seam on the front of the boot (CABoots are not allowed)
Boots are lightly scuffed
Holster
Holster worn on the left and attached to the belt from behind
Holster affixed with two fasteners at bottom. These may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws
BlasTech E-11 Blaster
Folding stock (does not need to function)
A real or replica ammo counter based off of a Hengstler counter
D-ring mounted on rear
Correct style scope
Two power cylinders on the magazine
Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster
No ESB/ROTJ greeblies on the blaster are allowed
Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.
BlasTech DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle
My EIB Approved TK:
This article was originally published in blog:
TrooperTim